Founded in the 13 th century, Sukhothai (literally means "Dawn of Happiness") was the first truly independent Thai Kingdom, which enjoyed a golden age under King Ramkhamhaeng, credited with creating the Thai alphabet. The superb temples and monuments of this great city have been lovingly restored in Sukhothai Historical Park, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and a must-see for all travellers.
Sukhothai is located on the lower edge of the northern region, 427 kilometres north of Bangkok or some 350 kilometres south of Chiang Mai. The province covers some 6,596 square kilometers.
Attractions
Having gained recognition as a UNESCO World Heritage site, the Sukhothai Historical Park is situated at the actual site of the ancient kingdom, with many of the important ruins located within the walled Royal City in the middle of the entire layout. Ruins of royal palaces, temples, city walls, moats, dams, ditches and other infrastructures have been well preserved and constantly restored to display the magnificent beauty of Thailand's cultural heritage. Best way to enjoy the park is by bicycle.
At the heart of the moated Royal City is Wat Mahathat , the most important temple complex in Sukhothai. As the kingdom's spiritual center, the first king erected the first chedi to house Buddha's relics at the epicenter. Additional buildings were added to the complex by successive kings. By the time it was abandoned, the complex contained some 200 chedis, with the lotus-bud chedi as the main one, as well as numerous wiharns (prayer halls) and bots (chapels) to house Buddha images that face east, as do all major religious structures and Buddhist images in Thailand.
Entering the Royal City from the east, the first wat (monastery) to be encountered is the remarkably scenic Wat Traphang Thong , surrounded by a lotus-filled pond. The bell-shaped, Sri Lankan-style chedis dates back to the mid-14th century.
The King Ramkamhaeng Monument is situated north of Wat Mahathat. The bronze statue of the king sits on a throne with a base relief documenting his life. The king was the creator of the first Thai alphabet.
Reflecting the Khmer influence, Wat Si Sawai , on the southwestern part of the Royal City, contains three Khmer-style prangs (towers), dating back to the 12-th-14th century.
To the south of the Royal City are the ruins of Wat Chetuphon. A mondop (a square-based structure) contains the remains of 4 Buddha images in various postures: sitting, standing, walking and reclining.
The old town of Si Satchanalai was the most important satellite-city of the Sukhothai Kingdom. The ruins of the Si Satchanalai-Chalieng Historical Park lie on the bank of the Yom River, north of Sukhothai. It is considered by many to be the pinnacle of Thai city planning, with temple complexes at the heart, surrounded by city walls, rivers, and forests. The nearby ruins of Chalieng are thought to be an earlier Khmer outpost dating back to the 12th century.
The Celadon Kiln Site Study and Conservation Center, 4 kms north of Si Satchanalai, contains more than 500 oval-shaped kilns that have been excavated. There are exhibitions of artifacts, including numerous unearthed celadon wares in perfect condition, and displays on the evolution of ancient ceramic wares.
Opened in 1984, the Sawan Woranayok National Museum features sculptured arts from various periods. Of interest are the Sangkhalok crockery from the Sukhothai era and Sangkhalok items retrieved from sunken vessels in the Gulf of Thailand.
The Si Satchanalai National Park contains mainly high, winding mountains covered with a tropical jungle. Main attractions include Tat Dao and Tat Duan Waterfalls, a hot spring, Khangkhao Cave and the Thara Wasan Cave. Perfect for trekking.
City Attractions
Sangkhalok Museum "Sangkhalok" is the name of ceramic wares produced in the old city of Sukhothai. The museum displays the collection of Sangkhalok and ceramic wares produced some 700 years ago in the Lanna Kingdom (now the northern region of Thailand). The museum is just one kilometre from town on the road to Phitsanulok. It is open daily from 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Admission is 100 baht for adults and 20 baht for children.
The Fish Museum is located in the Rama IV Park on the Sukhothai - Phitsanulok route, and can be reached by local bus from town. The museum displays a variety of fresh water fish mentioned in Thai literature. It is open daily except Tuesdays from 9 a.m. - 5 p.m. There is no admission fee.
Phra Mae Ya Shrine. This shrine is situated in front of the City Hall and is highly respected by Sukhothai residents. It houses an idol of Phra Mae Ya, a stone figure with a white face and long hair, dressed as an ancient queen. The idol is about 1 metre high, and is supposed to have been built during King Ramkhamhaeng's reign as a dedication to his late mother Nang Sueang.
Sukhothai Historical Park
Sukhothai Historical Park is located 12 kilometres from town on the Sukhothai-Tak Highway, and can be reached by local bus or hired motored tricycle from town. The park is open daily from 8.30 a.m.- 4.30 p.m. Admission is 40 baht. The park also offers tram services as well as bicycles for rent for exploring around its large area. The Tourist Service Centre in the park (Tel: 0-5569-7310) provides information, as well as displays of models of historical buildings and structures in old Sukhothai.
Ruins of the royal palaces, Buddhist temples, the city gates, walls, moats, dams, ditches, ponds, canals, and the water dyke control system, which was the magical and spiritual centre of the kingdom, are now preserved. They have been restored by the Fine Arts Department with the cooperation of UNESCO, not only with a view of fostering Thailand's national identity, but of safeguarding fine examples of mankind's cultural heritage.
Inside the city wallThe city wall is located in the centre of the historical park and is surrounded by earthen ramparts. The city has a rectangular shape some 1,300 metres wide and 1,800 metres long. The walls contain four main gates. A stone inscription mentions that King Ramkhamhaeng set up a bell at one of the gates. If his subjects needed help, they would ring the bell and the King would come out to settle disputes and dispense justice.
Inside the town stand 35 monuments including Buddhist temples and many other structures.
The Royal Palace and Wat Mahathat The royal palace lies in the centre of the town and covers an area of 160,000 square metres. This area is surrounded by a moat and contains two main compounds; the royal building and the sanctuary in the palace. In the royal compound exist the ruins of the royal building called Noen Phrasat.
Here, the famous stone inscription of King Ramkhamhaeng was found by King Mongkut (Rama IV) in the 19th century, together with a piece of the stone throne called "Manangkhasila-at". King Ramhamhaeng set up the throne in the midst of a sugar-palm grove where, at his request, a monk preached on Buddhist Sabbath days and the King conducted the affairs of state on other days. This throne was later installed in Bangkok's Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
A sanctuary lying to the west behind the Royal Palace compound is Wat Mahathat. It is Sukhothai's largest temple with a customary main chedi in lotus-bud shape and a ruined viharn. At the base of the chedi stands Buddhist disciples in adoration, and on the pedestal are seated Buddha images. In front of this reliquary is a large viharn formerly containing a remarkable seated bronze Buddha imange of the Sukhothai style, which was cast and installed by King Lithai of Sukhothai in 1362. At the end of the 18th century, the image was removed to the Viharn Luang of Wat Suthat in Bangkok by the order of King Rama I, and has since been named Phra Si Sakaya Muni. In front of the large viharn is another smaller viharn, which was probably built during the Ayutthaya period. Its main Buddha image (8 metres high), was installed inside a separate building. In front of the southern image, a piece of sculpture called "Khom Dam Din" (a Khmer who came by way of walking underground) was found, and is now kept in the Mae Ya Shrine near the Sukhothai City Hall. On the south stands a pedestal of a large chedi built up in steps, the lowest platform is adorned with beautiful stucco figures of demons, elephants and lions with angels riding on their backs. Mural paintings adorn this chedi.
King Ramkhamhaeng Monument. Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat, the bronze statue of King Ramkhamhaeng sits on a throne, with bas-relief at the base depicting the King's life. Wat Si Sawa is s ituated among magnificent scenery southwest of Wat Mahathat. Three prangs (pagodas) are surrounded by a laterite wall. Inside the wall, the viharn in the west, built of laterite, is separated from the main prang, which was constructed in the Lop Buri or Hindu-style, but the others constructed beside the prangs are Buddhist viharns. The Crown Prince of that time, who later became King Rama VI, found a trace of the Hindu sculpture Sayomphu, the greatest Hindu God in this sanctuary. In his opinion, this ruin was once a Hindu shrine, but was later converted into a Buddhist monastery, Wat Traphang-Ngoen
Situated to the west of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang-Ngoen with its square pedestal, main sanctuary, and stucco standing Buddha image in four niches. There is a viharn in front, and in the east of the pond, there is an island with an ubosot. This edifice has already crumbled and only its pedestal and laterite columns still remain. Many monuments and magnificent scenery are visible from this location.
Wat Chana Songkhram Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Chana Songkhram. Its main sanctuary is a round Singhalese-style chedi. In front of the chedi exists the base of a viharn, and behind the former stands an ubosot. Bases of twelve small chedis are also visible. Near Charot Withi Thong Road is a strange chedi having three bases, one on top of the other.
Wat Sa-Si is situated near Wat Chana Songkhram. Around a Singhalese-style chedi is the main sanctuary on an island in the middle of Traphang Trakuan Pond. A large viharn, contains a stucco Buddha image. To the south stand nine chedis of different sizes.
San-Ta-Pha-Daeng or Deity Shrine. Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is San Ta Pha Daeng. This monument consists of only one laterite prang with a staircase in the front. Sandstone Hindu divine objects (Lop Buri-style) were discovered here.
Wat Mai. Situated to the north of Wat Mahathat is Wat Mai. Wat Mai, having a brick viharn as the main sanctuary, is in the Ayutthaya style. The columns of the viharn are made of laterite. A bronze image of the Buddha under a Naga (Lop Buri-style statue) was found here, and is now preserved in the Ramkhamhaeng National Museum.
The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum The Ramkhamhaeng National Museum was built in 1960 and opened on 25 January, 1964. The museum collection includes gifts from the ex-abbot of Wat Ratchathani and art objects unearthed in Sukhothai and nearby provinces. It is open daily from 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Admission is 30 baht. Tel: 0-5569-7367
Wat Traphang Thong. Situated to the east of Wat Mahathat is Wat Traphang Thong. The monastery is located on an island in the middle of a large pond. A ruined laterite Singhalese-style chedi is on the island. In front of it, a new mondop contains the Lord Buddha's Footprint slab that was created by King Lithai in 1390 on Samanakut or Phra Bat Yai Hill. This footprint was removed to the new mondop some years ago. An annual fair to worship this sacred Lord Buddha's Footprint takes place at the same time as the Loi Krathong Festival.
Outside the City Wall : The Sites in the North
Wat Phra-Phai-Luang. This temple lies about 500 metres north of San Luang Gate (northern gate). This sanctuary, formerly a Khmer-Hindu shrine but later converted into a Buddhist monastery, is surrounded by a moat. It is second in importance to Wat Mahathat. Inside, there are three prangs like Wat Si-Sawai, but the southern and the central ones have crumbled leaving only the northern one decorated with stucco figures. In front of these prangs are a viharn and a crumbled chedi; the latter having a pedestal decorated with stucco seated Buddha images. A mondop contains Buddha images in four postures; sitting, reclining, standing, and walking. They are now all in ruins. A Sivalinga (Phallic emblem of Hindu gods) was unearthed in the compound of this sanctuary.
Ruins of the Old Celadon Factory (Thuriang Kiln). Thuriang Kiln is a site where Sukhothai celadons were made. Kilns exist in an area measuring 100 by 700 metres. Each kiln is divided into three sections; the fire area, the pottery baking oven, and the flue. The pottery found here was usually decorated in three different painted designs on their bottom: a disc, a fish, and a flower. Forty-nine kilns and small edifices are visible. To the north, a pond has been dug into the stone.
Wat Si-Chum Lies about 1,500 metres north of Wat Mahathat and was originally surrounded by a moat. A square mondop, which is the main sanctuary, contains a monumental stucco-over-brick Buddha image in the attitude of Subduing Mara called "Phra Achana." This Buddha measures 11.30 metres from knee to knee.
The mondop is 32 metres square, 15 metres high, and the walls are 3 metres thick. There is a passageway in the left inner wall, which leads to the above crossbeam. On the ceiling of the passageway are more than fifty engraved slate slabs illustrating Jataka scenes.
Outside the City Wall : The sites in the west
Wat Saphan-HinIs situated on a hill 200 metres high. A pathway of slate slabs leads to the sanctuary yard.
Wat Chang Rop is situated in the Aranyik area, and has a chedi decorated with an elephant emerging from the base. A viharn base with laterite columns stand in front of the Chedi.
Phra-Ruang Dam. This earthwork dam was formed to hold back the waters between Phra Bat Yai and Kio-Ai-Ma Hills, and was restored by Thailand's Irrigation Department. Water from the dam will be used as a reserve whenever the water level in other reservoirs goes down. This dam is referred to in the Sukhothai inscription.
Outside the City Wall : The Site in the South
Wat Chetuphon is a mondop enshrining four Buddha images in different postures: sitting, standing, walking, and reclining. The outer walls of the mondop still retain a section in the form of a slate pillar-balustraded window. There is an entrance to the mondop to the north. Just behind the mondop is a small sanctuary, which contains a Buddha image, known locally as Phra Si Ariya (Maitreya), the Lord Buddha of the Future.
Outside the City Wall : The Sites in the East
Wat Chang Lom is located to the north of Charot Withithong Road with a bell-shaped chedi of Ceylonese influence standing at the centre. The chedi is situated on a 3-tiered square base, with a platform decorated with a row of elephants, seen by their front halves supporting the round chedi.
This type of elephant-decorated chedi is to be seen in many ancient towns of the Sukhothai period; for example, Kamphaeng Phet and Si Satchanalai.
Wat Traphang Thonglang is a square mondop and represents the main sanctuary. In front of the mondop to the east, is the viharn and beyond the viharn stands an ubosot. The outer wall of the mondop is beautifully decorated by stucco figures in niches. The southern side portrays the Lord Buddha flanked by angels, decending from Tavatimsa Heaven. The west portrays the Lord Buddha preaching to his father and relatives. The northern side depicts the episode when the Lord Buddha returned to preach to his wife. These stucco figures, especially those on the south side, are masterpieces of Sukhothai art.
Khiri Mat
Ramkhamhaeng National Park (Khao Luang Sukhothai) This exquisite national park with a combined natural and historical background covers an area of 341 square kilometres, and was declared a national park on October 27, 1980.
High hills and steep cliffs, some over 1,200 metres above sea level, together with fascinating falls, different species of plants and wildlife, are some of the major attractions available in this park on offer to nature loving tourists and visitors. Furthermore, the archaeological and historical sites with ancient remains and relics, makes the park even more attractive, especially for critics and theologians.
To reach the park by road, take Highway No.1 from Bangkok, then at km.414 (20 kilometres to Sukhothai), then take the left turn along the laterite road for another 16 kilometres until arriving at the park's office. For accommodation, reservations for bungalows and tents can be made through the National Park Section, the Royal Forest Department by Tel: 0-2579-5734, 0-2579-7223 or 0-5561-9200-1or P.O.Box 1 Amphoe Khiri Mat, Sukhothai 64160.
Visitors have to start trekking before 3.30 a.m. everyday and bring food and essential equipment with them. Bungalows and tents are available. Admission is 200 baht per person.
Sawankhalok
Sawankhaworanayok National Museum is 38 kilometres from Sukhothai and 2 kilometres further on a road to the left. The museum was opened in 1984, and features sculptural art from various periods; the most interesting being Sangkhalok crockery from the Sukhothai era, and Sangkhlalok items retrieved from sunken vessels in the Gulf of Thailand. The museum is open daily except Mondays, Tuesdays, and public holidays, from 8.30 a.m-4 p.m. Admission is 30 baht per person. For more information, call 0-5564-1571.
Si Satchanalai
Si Satchanalai Historical Park Si Satchanalai Historical Park is located on the bank of the Yom River. It is open daily between 8.30 a.m.-4.30 p.m. Admission is 40 baht.
The ancient town, formerly called "Muang Chaliang," was named "Si Satchanalai" during the reign of Phra Ruang, when a new administrative centre was established to replace Chaliang. Ruins of 134 monuments have been discovered within the park:
Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat also called Wat Phra Borommathat Mueang Chaliang or Wat Phra Prang, is situated 3 kilometres to the south of ancient Si Satchanalai's wall. An immense laterite prang on a square base marks the centre of the temple. A steep staircase in front of the huge prang, leads to a room where a reliquary is enshrined.
Wat Khao Phanom Phloeng is a hilltop temple within the old town of Si Satchanalai. A laterite chedi in the centre, a large viharn or image hall in front, and a small sanctuary behind, all lie in ruins. Some laterite pillars and a damaged Buddha's image, constructed of laterite slabs and coated with mortar, can be seen.
Wat Khao Suwan Khiri is also a hilltop temple, situated 200 metres away from Phanom Phloeng Hill. A huge bell-shaped chedi on a 5-tiered base marks the centre of the temple. Ruins of a viharn and chedi, and fragments of huge stucco figures lie scattered on the ground. The similarity between some figures here and those at Wat Chang Lom in the old town of Sukhothai, leads to the belief that it was King Ramkhamhaeng the Great of the Sukhothai Kingdom who had this temple constructed.
Wat Chang Lom is an important monument within the old town of Si Satchanalai. A huge bell-shaped chedi supported by 39 elephants, with 4 of them at 4 cardinal points elaborately decorated, mark the centre of the temple. Above the chedi's base, there are niches enshrining images of the Buddha subduing Mara.
Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo is one of the most beautiful temples in Sukhothai Province. Chedis of different artistic styles and influence were built within the area of this temple. Mural paintings, seriously damaged, are still to be seen in some chedis.
Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan Yai is located near Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo with only a dirt road in between. A large image hall lies in remains within this temple. The monastery is also called Wat Kao Hong, or the 9 roomed temple.
Wat Nang Phaya is famous for its delicate stucco reliefs on the remains of the northwestern wall of the 7 room "viharn" or "image hall". The pillars of this viharn are decorated with unglazed ceramic designs. The central laterite chedi is surrounded by lampposts and accessible by a set of narrow stairs.
Wat Suan Kaeo Utthayan Noi is the only temple within the old town of Si Satchanalai with a brick building in front. The ruins of this temple consist of a whole laterite image hall with a laterite roof.
Celadon Kiln Site Study and Conservation Centre is located at Ban Ko Noi, some 4 kilometres to the north of Si Satchanalai. More than 500 kilns have been excavated up to now. Numerous celadon wares in perfect condition as well as potsherds have been discovered. The kiln is oval in shape with a curved roof and is 7-8 metres wide.
The centre consists of 2 buildings situated on the kiln site area with 2 kilns Nos. 42 and 61 exhibited on site. There are also exhibitions of artefacts and on the evolution of ancient ceramic wares. The centre is open daily from 9 a.m.- 4 p.m. Admission is 30 baht.
To get there, drive for 6.5 kilometres to the north of Si Satchanalai Historical Park to Ban Ko Noi, where the remains of ancient kilns can be seen scattered around. The centre is also accessible by the provincial highway No.1201 from Amphoe Si Satchanalai, a distance of 7 kilometres with the buildings located on the left.
Si Satchanalai National Park was proclaimed a national park on 8 May, 1981. With a total area of 213 square kilometres in Amphoe Si Satchanalai and Amphoe Thung Saliam of Sukhothai Province, Si Satchanalai National Park offers trekking routes through waterfalls and caves. The park's geography is mainly high, undulating mountains covered by a tropical jungle. Interesting tourist spots in the park include Tat Dao and Tat Duean Waterfalls, about 3 kilometres and 500 metres from the park headquarters, respectively. The park also has a hot spring, two caves called Tham Khangkhao (bats cave), and Tham Thara Wasan.
Si Satchanalai National Park is about 100 kilometres from Sukhothai via route no. 1113 and route no. 1294, and can be reached by local bus from Amphoe Si Satchanalai. The bus leaves for the park once a day and costs 30 baht. It takes 50 minutes for the journey. The park admission is 200 baht per person. There is accommodation for tourists. For reservations, please contact the National Park Section, Royal Forestry Department at Tel: 0-2579-5734, 0-2579-7223 or 0-5561-9214-5
Festival
Si Satchanalai Ordination CelebrationCalled by Thais "Buat Chang Hat Siao" , this local event is held annually from 7-8 Apri l at Ban Hat Sieo, Amphoe Si Satchanalai. It features a spectacular procession of ordination candidates in colourful costumes on the backs of some 20-30 decorated elephants. The ceremony has been arranged by Thai Phuan, the citizens of Ban Hat Siao, for more than 150 years.
Songkran FestivalThis is an annual celebration of the Thai New Year on 13 April. The festival was mentioned in the famous stone inscription, believed to have been inscribed during the reign of King Ramkhamhaeng the Great, of the Sukhothai Kingdom. They also host Loi Krathong and Candle Festivals.
Sukhothai's Loi Krathong is held annually on the full moon night of the 12th lunar month at the Sukhothai Historical Park. Activities during the festival include krathong floating, a fireworks display, and local games and performances amid the glamorous atmosphere of the Sukhothai Historical Park.
Hotels and accommodation
Restaurants
- Amphoe Sawankhalok
- Amphoe Si Satchanalai
- Amphoe Muang
How to get there
* By bus
Air-conditioned buses depart from Bangkok's Mochit 2 Bus Terminal to Sukhothai daily between 9.45 a.m. and 10.20 p.m. The journey takes 7 hours and costs 256 baht. Call 0 2936 2852-66 or visit www.transport.co.th for more information. Private bus companies which operate daily bus services to Sukhothai are Win Tour (Tel: 0 2936 3753 or 0 5561 1039), Phitsanulok Yan Yon (Tel: 0 2936 2924-5, 0 5525 8647).
* By train
There are no trains directly to Sukhothai. One may travel by train to Phitsanulok and then take a local bus to Sukhothai, some 50 kilometres away. Contact Bangkok Railway Station Tel. 1690, 0223 7010, 0 2223 7020 or visit www.srt.or.th for more information.
* By plane
Bangkok Airways has daily 1-hour flights from Bangkok to Sukhothai and also services the Chiang Mai-Sukhothai route. Sukhothai Airport is about 40 kilometres north of the town. For more information, call 0 2229 3456-63 or 0 5564 7225-6 or visit www.bangkokairways.com.