Nestled in a deep valley hemmed in by high mountain ranges, Mae Hong Son has long been isolated from the outside world. Virtually covered with mist throughout the year, the name refers to the fact that this terrain is highly suitable for the training of elephants.
Former governors of Chiang Mai used to organize the rounding up of wild elephants, which were then trained before being sent to the capital for work. Today, Mae Hong Son is one of the "dream destination" for visitors, who are attracted by its cultural and natural wonders.
Attractions
The small village of Soppong , situated northwest of Pai, is perched 700m up in the mountains, offering fine views of the beautiful surrounding teak forests and refreshingly, clean, crisp air. Although trekkers often pass through here on their way to visit local hilltribes, the village has a thriving market where local tribe people congregate daily. Slightly north of the village is Tham Lod (Cut-through Cave) , one of Southeast Asia's largest cave system. Three adjoining caverns form a vast subterranean canyon, which is cut through by a large stream. Discoveries of artifacts and huge, roughly carved teak coffins indicate the caves were inhabited thousands of years ago. Rafting and elephants can be used to cross the streams.
Within the town are some impressive temples. The teak temple of Wat Hua Wiang displays the Burmese-style multi-roofed design. The main chapel houses an important brass Buddha image brought over from Myanmar many centuries ago, Phra Chao Phla La Khaeng. Built in 1827 by the Shans, Wat Chong Kham features a multi-roofed Chedi and houses a sacred 5-metre seated Buddha image. Also built in the late 19th century, the nearby Wat Chong Klang has distinctive white and gold Chedis and painted glass panels depicting the Jataka tales. Wat Doi Kong Mu sits on a hilltop on the western side of town, and provides a great view of the city.
Originally a bathing pool for elephants, the Chong Kham Pond is centrally located and is particularly stunning in the early morning mists that engulfs the entire city.
Craft shops, restaurants, tour companies and other tourist-oriented service providers line the city's main street of Khunlum Phraphat Road. Hilltribe textiles and antiques can be bought at stores on this road too. Crafts and Thai Lue fabrics can be found at the Night Bazaar on Singhanat Bamrung Rd. Also on this road, near the Khunlum Phraphat intersection, are traditional Shan teak houses.
Many tourists visit and photograph the "long necked women" living in the nearby vicinity. The Padaung women are distinguished by their long necks, lengthened from childhood by brass rings.
East of the city, the town of Pai is regarded as one of the most tranquil and scenic spots in Northern Thailand, having many natural attractions such as hot springs. There is more activity here than in the provincial capital itself, being very popular with trekkers and lovers of mountain scenery. Originally an old Shan settlement, the town and surrounding areas have become populated by a diverse mix of Lisu and Lahu hilltribes, Muslims from Myanmar, and Yunnanese Chinese, and officially became a district in 1911. The town's Wat Nam Hu houses the sacred, 111-cm tall Luang Phor Une Muang from the Chiang Saen period. In 1972, a visiting monk from another province noticed the image's head was particularly moist. Upon a closer examination, he discovered the head was removable and hollow inside. But the inside was filled with water, which the monk proceeded to empty and thoroughly wiped dry the inside before closing the image's head, tying it securely, and locking all doors and windows. After 5 days had passed, the monk and other witnesses opened the pavilion and discovered the image's head was full of water again.
The small park of Mae Surin National Park located south of the provincial city is a popular destination, with many mammals and birds living in the lowland forests. Highlights include the spectacular 100-m tall Mae Surin Waterfall , one of the highest in Thailand, and the Thung Bua Thong (Wild Sunflower Meadow), which carpets the hills with a vividly golden color when in full bloom during November and December. Rafting trips along the Pai River are also popular.
Way further south is the small pleasant town of Mae Sariang on the Yuam River. The area around Mae Sariang is mountainous and densely forested, with many windy roads. The town's long historical links with nearby Myanmar is evident in the structural architectures, such as the multi-layered roofs and vividly orange and yellow Chedis of the 19th century such as Wat Chong Sung, and Wat Si Bunruang built in 1939. A large community of Burmese Muslims inhabits the town, and the Karens, the area's main ethnic group, are also often seen in town. A 45-minute journey from town will take you to Mae Sam Laep , the Karen settlement on the Myanmar border next to the Salaween River.
A short distance north of the city, is the scenic spot of Tham Pla Forest Park (Fish Cave), actually a pool and stream at the base of a limestone outcrop, and not a cave, with huge carps living in it. Visitors buy papaya to feed the fish and enjoy the peaceful surrounding gardens.
Northwest of Tham Pla, in the mountains near the Burmese borders, is the remote settlement built by members of the Kuomintang (KMT) called Mae Aw. The exiled Chinese soldiers of KMT, or Chinese Nationalist Army, migrated here after their defeat in China by Mao Tse-tung in 1949. The village offers a great insight into the life of an isolated border village and superb views of the area.
City attractions
Next to Wat Chong Kham is Wat Chong Klang, where a replica of the Phra Buddha Sihing is installed on an altar. There are several interesting items, such as the wooden figurines of human and animals depicted in the Phra Vejsandon Jakata (pronounced Cha-dok, which means one of odd stories of the former incarnations of the Buddha). These were created by Burmese craftsmen and brought over in 1857, painting images on glass about the Jakata and Prince Siddhartha, as well images of the ways of life of the time. The captions are in Burmese. There are also notations that the paintings were by Thai Yai artisans from Mandalay.
An old temple, Wat Chong Kham is located on the bank of the swamp called Nong Chong Kham, and was built in 1827 by Thai Yai artisans. The pillars are gilded in golden flakes. The temple houses a large Buddha statue with a lap width of 4.85 metres cast by Burmese craftsmen. The principal statue is another statue, which is a replica of the statue in Wat Suthat in Bangkok. Namtok Pha Sua is in Tambon Mokchampae about 17 kilometres from the provincial seat on Route 1095 to Pai district, with a left turn at Ban Rak Thai village. The waterfall is a further twenty kilometres from the village. It is a large fall with its water source in Myanmar. Pha Sua runs full during the late rainy season (August-September).
Another five kilometres further on along the path to high hills are the hilltribe villages of Na Pa Paek and Mae Or on the Thai-Burmese border.
Thai Yai Architecture can be seen in most temples. Although a part of the Lanna region, the indigenous Thai Yai or Tai people living there are faced with very cold weather during winter and extremely hot weather in the summer, with mist or fog practically throughout the whole year.
Not surprisingly they have had to adapt to the environment. As a result, their architectural style has developed into something different from other Lanna communities. Their living quarters are usually built with tall floors and low roofs, the sizes differing according to one's social status and position. Homes of the ordinary folks are usually with one single level of roof, while those of the local aristocrats have two or more levels forming a castle-like shape. The space thus provided is believed to help air circulation. An interesting feature of the Thai Yai style is the perforated designs along the eaves, which are an architectural identity of the area.
Phraya Singhanatracha Memorial commemorates the first Chao Muang (governor) of Mae Hong Son. A Thai Yai native from Burma, he was regarded by the people as the governor of Khun Yuam, which was to the south of Mae Hong Son. Later, he was officially installed as the Chao Muang of Mae Hong Son by the King of Lanna in 1874.
Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu , located on a hill to the west of town, is a major provincial landmark. There are two Burmese-style Chedis (pagodas). The larger one was built in 1860 while the smaller one was erected in 1874. A panoramic view of Mae Hong Son can be enjoyed from the site.
At the foot of Doi Kong Mu is Wat Phra Non , which houses a 12-metre long Reclining Buddha in the Tha Yai style cast in 1875 by Phra Nang Miah, wife of Phraya Singhanatracha. Another main feature of the temple are the two large sculpted lions lying side by side, presumably guarding the passage for those going up to pay homage to the Kong Mu Holy Relic on the hill.
Opposite Wat Phra Non is Wat Kam Ko , an old temple built in 1890. A special architectural feature is the cover over the passageway from the entrance arch to the Burmese-style Vihara* (Vihara means an edifice housing a principal Buddha image of the temple). It also stores text in the Thai Yai script chronicling the Thai Yai history.
Wat Hua Wiang or Wat Klang Muang on Sihanat Bamrung Road next to the Morning Market was built in 1863. It houses the Phra Chao Pharalakhaeng, a Buddha statue dressed in beautiful attire. It is a replica of a major statue in Mandalay, Myanmar.About 17 kilometres from town on Highway No. 1095 (Mae Hong Son-Pai) is Tham Pla Forest Park. The surrounding areas have brooks and cool hilly forests suitable for relaxation. A special feature is the hollow cave filled with Phluang fish, which is of the same family as the carp. The fish are quite safe from capture, as they are believed to belong to the gods.
The Pha Bong Hot Spring is located on Highway No. 108, about 11 kilometres from town. There are facilities for mineral water baths for health purpose.
Pang Mapha
The Tham Lot Forest Park is situated in a forest in Pang Mapha district some 77 kilometres from town. Here, nature has created an exotic subterranean wonder of darkness and mystery. A brook runs from the cave mouth through to the other side of the mountain. It is a route where visitors may travel by raft or by foot to explore the 1 kilometre-long cave, along which can be found beautiful stalactites and stalagmites. Also discovered here were 2,000 year-old remains of utensils and coffins. There are services provided by villagers to guide visitors in their explorations.
Another site where stalactites and stalagmites can be found is the Mae Lana Cave. The stream inside the cave is habitat to eyeless and colorless fish that live in thedark environment.
Sop Moei
Mae Ngao River is a good water route for shooting the rapids. Adventure travel tourists can enjoy the unspoiled scenery along the riverbanks. Services are available from tour operators in Mae Hong Son.
Pai
At Km. 65 on the Pai-Mae Malai route (No.1095), there is a turning leading to the headquarters of the Huai Nam Dang National Park. Visitors can spend the night in tents, waiting for the spectacular views of sunrise and mist-shrouded mountain views in the morning. Cherry Blossoms during January, heightens the charm of the attractions.
The Tha Pai Hot Spring , two kilometres off Route 1095 at Km. Marker 87, has an average temperature of 80 degrees Celcius. Steam from the spring permeates the site in the morning, creating fascinating sights. The area is also rich in teakwoods, and is suitable for overnight camping.
Rafting along the Mae Pai is an exciting and delightful recreation. Mae Pai itself is the longest river of Mae Hong Son province, originating from mountain ranges in Laos, and which flows through the Pai district of the province, eventually joining the Salween river in Myanmar, a total distance of 180 kilometres. With an average depth of some 7 metres, the riverbed is mainly pebbled. There are several sectors eminently suitable for rapids rafting, and natural scenery which includes beautiful waterfalls. Tour operators in Mae Hong Son town or in Pai district can provide the necessary services, some are also able to provide elephant rides. The best time for rafting is from October to March.
Khun Yuam
The Dok Bua Tong (may be classified as wild sunflowers) on Doi Mae U-koh, blooms during November, painting the entire Khun Yuam district in brilliant yellow, and drawing flocks of visitors to the area. A camping site is located about 26 kilometers from the district town on Highway No. 1263. A little further on is a huge waterfall , the Mae Surin , cascading down for one hundred meters. Here, camping can also be set up.
The Khun Yuam Indigenous Cultural Center , located at Km. 200 on Highway No. 108, has a considerable collection of Thai Yai and other hilltribes handicrafted products. It also displays military accessories and equipment used by the Japanese army, which entered Khun Yuam district during World War II.
WatTo Phae is located 7 kilometres from Khun Yuam and has a large, beautiful Burmese styleVihara. According to the legend, it is said that people used to assemble here, prior to making teak trees raft trips to the market places
Mae Sariang
Covering an area of 721 square kilometers, the Salween National Park , is on the banks of the Salween River, on the Thai-Burmese border, about 164 kilometres south of Mae Hong Son. Transport can be hired to travel to Mae Sam Laep village (46 kilometers), before proceeding by hired boat to the park headquarters. Scenes along the Salween banks are captivating, with forests and mountains, and dotted with small hamlets. On the sandy beach in front of the Headquarters, camping is permitted.
Festival
The Poi Sang Long Procession, is in fact the celebration of novice ordination, which the Thai Yai tribe people hold to be a highly meritorious occasion. Traditionally, the candidate-novice, his head cleanly shaven and wrapped with head-cloth in the Burmese style, will don a prince-like garment and put on valuable jewels and gems, and ride a horse or be carried over the shoulders of a man to the city shrine. On the ordination eve, a procession of offerings and other necessary personal belongings will be paraded through the town streets, and then placed at the monastery where the ordination will take place the next day. It is usually held during March-May before the Buddhist Rain Retreat period.
Chong Phara Procession, The Chong Phara in the Thai Yai dialect means a castle made of wood, covered with colourful perforated papers and decorated with fruits, flags and lamps. It is placed in the courtyard of a house or a monastery, as a gesture of welcome to the Lord Buddha on his return from giving sermons to his mother in heaven, according to traditional belief. Other activities to celebrate the occasion include dances, where performers are dressed in animal costumes. The rite is held during the post rain retreat season, from the full-moon day of the 11 Lunar month (around October), to the waxing moon night of the same month.
Bua Tong Blossom Festival, e ach year in November, the hillsides of Khun Yuam and Mae Sariang districts are filled with a host of golden Bua Tong Blooms. As gay as a daisy and almost as large as a sunflower, the Bua Tong only blossoms for a month.
Hotels and accommodation
Restaurants
- Amphoe Muang
- Amphoe Mae
- Amphoe Pai
How to get there
* By bus
FROM BANGKOK:
Mae Hong Son is located 924 kilometres from Bangkok. Muang Nua Tour (Tel: (01-4416871) operates an airconditioned bus, which runs directly from Bangkok to Mae Hong Son. The bus departs from Mochit II Bus Terminal at 18.00 hours every day. The trip takes about 17 hours.
There is no direct flight from Bangkok to Mae Hong Son. Tourists may take the Bangkok-Chiang Mai flights, which connect with the Chiang Mai-Mae Hong Son flights. Reservations should be made in advance through Thai Airways, Tel: 280-0060, 628-2000 or call 1566 for current schedule.
FROM CHIANG MAI
Mae Hong Son can be reached from Chiang Mai either by Highway No. 108 via Mae Sariang, or Highway No. 1095 via Pai, which shortens the distance to some 274 kilometres. Regular buses are operated by Prem Pracha Transport , Tel: (053) 244737, 242767.
Buses depart from Chiang Mai Arcade Bus Station daily to Mae Hong Son by two different routes:
- Southern route: Buses leave frequently from Chaing Mai to Mae Hong Son via Hot, Mae Sariang, and Khun Yuam districts from 6.30-21.00 hours. The journey takes 8 hours.
- Northern route: Buses leave frequently from Chaing Mai to Mae Hong Son via Pai district from 07.00-12.30 hours. The journey takes 6 hours.
There are 4 daily flights from Chiang Mai to Mae Hong Son. Tourists are advised to book tickets at least 2 days before departure. Contact Thai Airways Tel: (053) 210043-5, 211044-7 (Chiang Mai), or (053) 611297, 611194 (Mae Hong Son).
* By car
From Bangkok, take Highway No. 32 to Nakhon Sawan via Ayutthaya, Ang Thong and Sing Buri and then proceed along Highway No. 1 to Kamphaeng Phet, a total distance of 358 kilometres.