The former Pathet Lao (PL) revolutionary headquarters of Vieng Xai sit in a striking valley of fertile hills and limestone cliffs riddled with caves, several of which were used to shelter PL officers during the Second Indochina War. The town is famous for the caves in which the stoic officers and some 23, 000 people found shelter, but Vieng Xai itself is unbearably pretty. Manmade lakes spot the landscape and wildflowers explode in crimson and yellow to join the emerald and karst backdrop. The beauty of the terrain somehow underscores the decimation it suffered during the American bombing campaign.